Until next time, keep on travelin'. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | 4.6 out of 5 stars 64. Named after the first Italian queen, it comes with the colors of the Italian flag: red tomatoes, white mozzarella cheese, and a garnish of green basil. Roman dining rooms were always richly decorated. It was an important commercial center — imagine this square just busy with market activity. Beside this wall there was a room where the slaves made the fire. Ciao. ▲ Duomo Naples' historic cathedral, with a breathtaking Neo-Gothic facade and vast interior. After the tepidarium there was the caldarium, which was the hot bath. OK! Caked and baked by the same eruption in AD 79, Herculaneum is a small … It was originally faced with gleaming marble. Neighborly chitchat and heated arguments take place curbside. Keep your money belt hidden. The sweeping Bay of Naples arcs from its teeming city south past the ancient ruins of Pompeii all the way to genteel Sorrento, the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. The jilted queen serenely oversees the action as ancient justice prevails. $13.99. Fast and free shipping free returns cash on … The entire bay is well served by a rickety but reliable commuter train. Gaetano: Yes to the crossroad, avoiding wet feet. If you're still, you can hear the occasional cascades of rocks tumbling into the crater…Vesuvius could indeed blow again. Click here for the lowest price! So many European travel dreams take you to Italy. A steady stream of the neighborhood faithful remember him and hope he remembers them as a stop here is a part of their daily worship routine. The local king who ruled from Naples demanded "Bring me back the best of whatever you find!" It's easy to forget that, for many centuries, the people of Pompeii painted Mount Vesuvius like this — before it blew its top. The steaming vents are a reminder that while Vesuvius may be quiet, it's just taking a geological nap. Church of Santa Chiara 14th-century Gothic church dating back to the city's time under French royal rule. We'll climb to the top of nearby Mount Vesuvius, then wander through the amazing ruins of Pompeii, the Roman town it destroyed. The last episode in this three-part mini-series distills Rick Steves' 30 years of travel experience into 30 minutes of practical advice on how to have a fun, affordable, and culturally broadening trip to Europe. The Drunken Faun — singing and snapping his fingers to the beat, is clearly living for today — true to the Epicurean philosophy Caesar's father-in-law subscribed to. ▲ Galleria Umberto I Victorian iron-and-glass shopping mall. In Italy soccer's like religion, in Napoli especially. In the 18th century, Naples finally became the capital of its own independent kingdom. Naples has long suffered from a bad reputation. 5.0 out of 5 stars 5. Watching the police try to enforce traffic sanity is almost comical in this gritty city. We'll prowl backstreet fish markets, dodge fast-moving Vespas, and dine on pizza where it was invented. Because it circles under Mount Vesuvius, the train's called the "Circumvesuviana.". This one shows little cupids playing out commercial activities of the town: collecting flowers, taking your knocks on a chariot, and enjoying the local wine. That's why, even though this site is so impressive, the finest art and artifacts of Pompeii ended up back in Naples… Italy intensifies as you plunge deeper. And so what they did, they injected a liquid plaster in these empty spaces. Overcome your fear of being run down or ripped off long enough to talk with people. Its people have an impressive knack for living, eating, and raising children in the streets. It was built of brick and mortar — a Roman invention. This much-adored statue celebrates Giuseppe Moscati, a Christian doctor famous for helping the poor. It stands directly across Spaccanapoli from the Gothic Church of Santa Chiara. Italians who come to the States are not impressed by thick and fancy pizzas. And also, assume able-bodied beggars are actually pick pockets. Rick: One day a thriving city, the next day…this. From the Pompeii stop, shuttle vans take curious visitors up the volcano to the end of the road. I'm Rick Steves. Moscati was so loved by the local community that when he died in 1927 there was a movement to make him a saint. Vesuvius. With no yards, families make full use of their tiny balconies. Belly up to the crater-edge viewpoints. Hey! Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Pompeii and Herculaneum. Culture thrived at Pompeii. The last stop was the frigidarium — the cold bath. [lupini beans] Rick: Lupini! The adjacent Victorian iron and glass of the 100-year-old Galleria Umberto I takes you back to a grander time. Each stall is eye-catching. This slim guide excerpted from Rick Steves Italy includes:. Rick Steves Europe: Pompeii, Italy: Window on Ancient Rome Life in Pompeii stopped in its tracks in 79 a.d. when the thriving city was buried by the eruption of Mt. As the city's wealth was used to fund the industrial expansion of the north, Naples eventually lost its status and glamour. Fountains provided a social center at intersections. Rick: Basso living. Walls are crusty with posters and death announcements. Paperback. Over the ages it became an important center ruled by a series of foreign overlords. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Naples. People here are more fun-loving and easy-going. I really want to see Capri and Amalfi, so Naples and Pompeii were a secondary choice for us, but we still want to see them. Pio Monte della Misericordia Small church near the Duomo displaying one of Caravaggio's best works. And don't forget to look up. Once upon an ancient Greek time, that woman, Dirce, seduced a king who abandoned his pregnant queen. Paperback. Pause at any street corner to enjoy a vivid slice of Neapolitan life. This time we're exploring Naples! Roberta: Yeah, it's like a small apartment, two, three bedrooms, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine people join the family. They were massaged by the slaves 25, 30 minutes before going to the sauna. Located just south of Naples, Pompeii was founded in 600 BC and eventually grew from its Greek and Etruscan roots into a bustling Roman trading city and port. Everyone seems connected by cell phones. In this compact guide, Rick Steves covers the essentials of Naples and the Amalfi Coast, including Pompeii, Vesuvius, Positano, and Amalfi Town. Rick Steves Snapshot Naples & the Amalfi Coast: Including Pompeii by Rick Steves. Naples is Italy in the extreme. And one by one, we're sharing them all. And, across the street, the Gran Caffè Gambrinus retains the elegance of the 1860s. Again, the art of Pompeii shows an intimate and impressive mastery of realism. For a private tour of the excavations at Pompeii, consider Gaetano, who brings energy and theatricality to his tours. This scene from the grand Battle of Alexander — with over a million pieces — decorated a floor in Pompeii's House of the Faun. In so many ways, you'll find southern Italy is a distinct culture from the north. Enjoy a few smiles and jokes with the man running the neighborhood tripe shop, or the woman taking her daycare class on a walk through the traffic. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Fodor's The Amalfi Coast, Capri & Naples (Full-color Travel Guide) Fodor's Travel Guides. For a better understanding of life at Pompeii, Italian archeologist Gaetano Manfredi is taking us on a walk. The House of [the] Vettii, the home of a wealthy merchant, shows the typical layout of a mansion. The basilica, or law court, was nearby. The hot air went underneath the double floor, because this floor is supported by little columns, and the hot air went between the double walls. [lupini beans] With Rick Steves. In this program we go shopping Neapolitan style, dodge scooters in Naples' crazy traffic, explore the city's vibrant neighborhoods, admire exquisite ancient mosaics at the National Museum of Archaeology, taste pizza in its birthplace, climb the lip of Mount Vesuvius, and wander the amazing ruins of the Roman town it destroyed: Pompeii. Pompeii's best art is in the Naples Archaeological Museum. Follow Rick Steves Jr as we travel through Italy, taking advantage of cheap things on the way. If you like Italy as far south as Rome, go further south — it just gets better. Inside the niches all around there were oils, creams, perfumes for the body massages. It's possible to day-trip to Pompeii from Rome, if you start early and plan on a long day. ▲▲▲ Archaeological Museum One of the world's great museums of ancient art, it boasts supersized statues as well as art and decorations of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Oct 5, 2019 - Rick Steves' Europe Travel Guide | In gritty Naples, we go shopping Neapolitan style, dodge scooters in Naples' crazy traffic, explore the city's vibrant nei... More information Travel with Rick on this video guide to Naples and Pompeii in Italy and find out what to do on your next trip. The abandoned queen gave birth to twin boys, who grew up, and after killing their deadbeat dad, they tied Dirce to the horns of a bull to be bashed against a mountain. But if you'd like more comprehensive coverage of the region, including information on Herculaneum, Vesuvius, and Paestum, the Snapshot guide is … Europe has a lifetime of travel experiences. You name it, it occurs right on the streets today, as it has for centuries. ▲ Galleria Borbonica Vast, fascinating network of caves, aqueducts, and cisterns underneath Naples' Royal Palace. This slim guide excerpted from Rick Steves Italy includes:. For lovers of antiquity, this museum alone makes Naples a worthwhile stop. Many tourists don't know that you can easily visit the summit of Vesuvius — you can ride a private bus, hop a trolley, hire a taxi, or simply drive up in your rental car. While Europe has other dangerous volcanoes, only Vesuvius sits in the middle of a three-million-person metropolitan area that would be impossible to evacuate quickly. These are given as thanks for prayers — in this case to Saint Moscati — that were answered. The museum also has highlights from other parts of the Roman Empire. Rather than seeing Naples as a long list of sights, see its great archeological museum — which we'll visit later — and then capture the spirit of the city by walking through its historic core. Red lights are considered discretionary. Located just south of Naples, Pompeii was founded in 600 BC and eventually grew from its Greek and Etruscan roots into a bustling Roman trading city and port. It's lovable chaos. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when traveling in Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Stepping into the lavishly Baroque Gesù Nouvo church you'll learn how, along with sports heroes, Neapolitans have their religious heroes too. Rick: Oh, vongole! Naples is Italy in the extreme — its best (birthplace of pizza) and its worst (home of the Camorra, Naples' "family" of organized crime). Naples' fish market wiggles and squirts from under one of the city's surviving medieval gates. And plunging deeper? Here we go — bella Napoli. ▲▲ Lungomare passeggiata Locals' evening people-watching stroll along the inviting Lungomare harborside promenade. This tangled mess — as intense an urban scene as anything you'll find in western Europe — still somehow manages to breathe, laugh, and sing…with a captivating Italian accent. Pompeii was excavated back in the 1700s — before Italy was united. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Castel Sant'Elmo 16th-century Spanish-built fortress housing a decent modern art museum and offering great views of the city and its bay. Rick: Very smart. ▲▲ Cappella Sansevero Small chapel that's a Baroque explosion mourning the body of Christ, and personal chapel of eccentric 18th-century Freemason Raimondo de Sangro. The Secret Room contains an assortment of erotic statues and frescoes. Rick: So literally, "low." ... it boasts supersized statues as well as art and decorations of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Here we go. The tiny streetside Chapel of Maradona is dedicated to Diego Maradona, a soccer star who played for Naples back in the 1980s. Bella Napoli! Pompeii is easily reached from Naples by a sightseeing bus or the Circumvesuviana commuter (or Campania Express) train (roughly 30 minute trip on any of those). Each has a symbol of the ailment cured: heart disease, lung problems, a sick child, whatever. Rick Steves' Snapshot Naples & the Amalfi Coast: Including Pompeii by Rick Steves. ▲ Cemetery of the Fountains Quirky cemetery of caves — stacked with human bones and dotted with chapels — cut into the hills at the high end of town. In 1943, it fell through the dome of Father Moscati's church, but destroyed almost nothing — some say yet another miracle. It spewed for 18 hours, sending a red-hot avalanche racing down the mountainside at about 100 mph burying the city of Pompeii in 20 feet of scalding debris. Look here, look what we have: Maradona, our big superstar, the soccer hero. I hope you've enjoyed our look at colorful Naples and evocative Pompeii. The finest art and artifacts ended up here, leaving the ancient sites themselves barren (though still impressive). Today, Italy's third-largest city feels in many places like an urban jungle. The church where the saint preached has made a small museum covered with ex-voti. Terms of Service | Privacy. As we still do today, after the sauna to harden the muscles and for the body's circulation…the cold bath. It's a great place to get up close and personal with the ancient world. The Bay of Naples area, about three hours south of Rome, is filled with fun and fascination. The curia housed the government. Remains of homes give a glimpse into Roman lifestyles. There was a circulation of hot air, and just when everything was really hot, they opened the water fountain over here, the water slowly fell on the floor — the floor was hot — and this produced steam. Newly united Italy was flush with energy and optimism, and this was a virtual palace for the public. ▲ Church of Gesù Nuovo Unique-on-the-outside, brilliant-on-the-inside church in the Neapolitan Baroque style. Unemployment is chronically high, and past local governments set an example that the Mafia would be proud of. In this program Rick goes shopping Neapolitan style, dodges scooters in Naples' crazy traffic, explores the city's vibrant neighborhoods, admires exquisite ancient mosaics at the National Museum of Archaeology, tastes pizza in its birthplace, climbs the lip of Mount Vesuvius, and wanders the amazing ruins of the Roman town it destroyed, Pompeii. This church's unique pyramid-grill facade survives from a fortified 15th-century noble palace. The collection ranges from grand statuary and exquisite mosaics to the most intimate details of everyday Roman life. Roberta: Life in the streets, yeah. Either way, imagine the café buzzing with the intellectuals, journalists, and high-society bigshots who sipped and munched here during Naples' 19th-century heyday. It boasts supersized statues as well as art and decorations from Pompeii and Herculaneum (another ancient burg destroyed by the AD 79 eruption of Mount Vesuvius). In this compact guide, Rick Steves covers the essentials of Naples and the Amalfi Coast, including Pompeii, Vesuvius, Positano, and Amalfi Town. You know, during the excavations, sometimes the archaeologists found, under the volcanic materials some empty spaces left by the decomposition of the bodies. They decorated the holiday home of Julius Caesar's father-in-law. The collection's centerpiece is the largest intact statue from antiquity — said to be carved out of one piece of marble. Neapolitans lament that after their city joined the newly united Italy, its riches were swallowed up by the new country. Royal Palace Huge, lavish palace with grand, albeit relatively unimpressive interior. For lovers of antiquity, this museum by itself makes Naples a worthwhile stop. Centuries before Christ, Naples was a thriving Greek commercial center called Neapolis — or, the "new city." Roberta: This is basso living. They brag it takes several years of practice to get the dough just right. Rick: What does that mean, "basso"? From Naples, we'll climb smoldering Mount Vesuvius and visit the ruins of Pompeii. Naples is Italy in the extreme. Click here for the lowest price! Then we climb the lip of a slumbering volcano, and wander the amazing ruins of the Roman town it destroyed. Gaetano: Thousands of people died in this eruption. While the site is evocative, the horrors of that day in 79 AD are hard to imagine. It was "restored," in part, by Michelangelo. Another finely detailed and realistic mosaic shows street musicians boisterously entertaining those not quite up to a night at the theater. Judging from the enthusiasm of those munching these hot and tasty pies, what really matters is not the quantity of ingredients, but the quality. A part of the ceiling is still original, and so we can see how beautifully decorated it was once on the ceiling. Italy's Amalfi Coast - Video - Rick Steves' Europe For coronavirus (COVID … As this place is often jammed with a long line, arrive early or late to get a seat. ▲ Piazza del Plebiscito Big, ceremonial city square that's home to the Pantheon-inspired Church of San Francesco di Paola. Rick Steves Snapshot Naples & the Amalfi Coast: Including Pompeii (Rick Steves Travel Guide) Rick Steves. You can almost hear the bull snorting. And a short jet-boat ride takes you to the enchanting Isle of Capri. That made it a kind of free-trade zone — and Pompeii was an important port town. If Italy is getting a little overwhelming by the time you get down to Rome, think twice about going further. 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